A FAI Weekend
In mid-October we had a FAI weekend in italy. The verb fai in Italian mean “you make” or “you do”. In this case it stands for an organization il Fondo Ambiente Italiano (Italian Environment Fund). Established in 1975, FAI is a non-profit that works to preserve, conserve, or help restore aetistic, historic, or natural heritage sites in Italy. They also sponsor events throughout Italy to encourage people to visit these sites. These events are a great way to learn more about the special places throughout the country. Sometimes you have have the opportunity to see things that are not normally open to the public. This fall we attended an event here in Foligno. Events were initially scheduled for 2 weekends, but the second was cancelled due to Covid-19 concerns.
On October 18th, our own rione (neighborhood) hosted an event called
LE MERAVIGLIE DEL RIONE PUGILLI – The marvels of the Pugilli neighborhood
So of course we had to check it out!
We live on one of the prettiest streets in Foligno, and this event started with a tour of the Pugilli Taverna, which is at the other end of our street. While we have eaten there several times, we have usually been outside in the huge courtyard. We have toured a couple of other Tavernas, but this was the first time we got to go upstairs at ours.
The Pugilli Taverna
The taverna was originally the convent or monastery for the Chiesa San Giacomo (St. James Church), which was built in 1402 by the Servite Order. After that it was a district prison from 1927 to 1959.
Touring the taverna, it was easy to see how the convent with its small rooms could easily have been converted to a prison.
In 1996 it became the neighborhood taverna. The taverna is not a neighborhood bar. It is more like a club. It is normally only open for 2 weeks twice per year in the run up to our Giostra della Quintana competition. When it is open, volunteers (i popolani) serve traditional Umbrian food and wine at large tables in the huge courtyard and on the first floor of the taverna. The upper floors have the banners received in the years they won the Quintana and the opulent clothing the courtiers will wear in the Corteo (parade) the night before the big event.
Here’s how the clothing looks when it is on during the Corteo. In addition to being stunningly beautiful, they also have to be historically accurate. The patterns and colors have to be appropriate for the 1700s.
The Orto Jacobilli
Next we had a discussion about the Orto Jacobilli and other urban gardens established in the 17th century within the city walls used as both green spaces and places to produce food for those within the walls during a siege or other times of hardship. For many years, the taverna was located here.
The garden itself is large, 2200 sq. meters (23,680 sq, ft.). The walls are made of rock from the Topino river, which boarders our neighborhood. The walls on the east side were from the early Middle Ages and were part of the wall that encircled the city. The walls on the south side are form the late Middle Ages and sit atop a bridge, probably Roman, from the 4th or 5th century.
The docent discussed the Roman history in our area, and pointed out a Roman arch that makes up part of that bridge.
San Giovanni Battista
The final site was a tour of the small church, San Giovanni Battista which is next to the ex-hospital of the same name. Over the last 6 years we’ve seen the rococo outer facade restored, but it has never been open. It still needs extensive renovation to restore the frescos by the Foligno painters Bernardino Mezzastris and Feliciano de’ Muti.
Originally named San Giovanni Battista de’Pugillis, it was built in the 15th century. It was built over the foundation of an even older church from the 1300s, but there is nothing remaining from that one.
The building next to the church became the hospital San Giovanni Battista in 1861. Although it had already been closed for many years, when the new hospital was built in 2006, this little church was largely forgotten and neglected. I’m happy to see that it is now being restored.
