Genoa - We Finally Made It!
In 2010, when the Tandem Spirits were visiting family in Lucca, we mentioned that we were considering a trip to Genova. There was silence at the table. Then Laura’s husband Massimo said “You can’t go to Genova.”. A robust conversation ensued, and it was finally decided that we should go to Santa Margarita instead.
When James’ cousins from Michigan told us they were going to be in La Spezia for a week, we knew this was our chance to finally get to Genova. It took twelve years, but better late than never.
Genova is a a port town. It has a rough reputation. It is also a city with a rich history that includes famous and infamous figures such as Andrea Doria, Christopher Colombus, Niccolò Paganini, and Giuseppe Mazzini. We had to see it for ourselves. It did not disappoint.
La Chiesa di San Siro
We took some time to walk through the narrow streets packed with every kind of shop you can imagine. As we walked we came across a number of Churches. The first was La Chiesa di San Siro, which was built in 1580. We were struck by a beautiful painting of the Annunciation, and were not surprised to discover that it was by Gentileschi.
San Pietro in Banchi
The next church was San Pietro in Banchi, constructed in 1573. This is a smaller church with an interior made of white marble, a stark contrast to the colorful exterior. The plasterwork above the alter shows St. Peter receiving the keys to the church.
The Cathedral of San Lorenzo was under restoration, but it was still possible to go in and take a look.
Piazza de Ferrari
After the churches, we arrived in the main square, Piazza Ferrari. We admired the fountain and the Ducal Palace, then strolled along the porticos and enjoyed looking at the buildings which displayed a variety of architectural styles.
All that walking made us hungry. Fortunately, James’ cousin Marina had recommended a trattoria and we had made reservations. Genova is full of narrow, almost maze-like streets. Trattoria Ugo is located along one of these. We enjoyed an incredibly good lunch. James ordered the Pansoti in Salsa di Noci, Virginia ordered Tortelli alle Erbette Picanti. Both were stuffed pastas. James’ was in a walnut cream sauce, Virginia’s was with spicy herbs. For a second dish we shared an order of fresh cheese and herb filled fried anchovies. We also shared a Tiramisu for dessert.
The Aquarium
After lunch we walked to the aquarium. Genova’s aquarium is the largest in Europe and is highly regarded. We spent a couple of hours there. One of the best exhibits was the seahorses. The various jellyfish exhibits were also mesmerizing.
Palazzo Royal
We ended the day with a visit to the Royal Palace.
Originally built in 1643, it became one of then Savoia royal palaces in 1850. The ballroom was grand, and the stuccos of women dancing gave it an elegant, yet whimsical touch.
We’ll definitely return to Genova. One day was not enough.
It looks beautiful! My grandmother’s family is from Genoa – I’ll need to go someday.